Por las Calles del Viejo San Juan (Through the Streets of Old San Juan) on Fuji Superia X-TRA 400

If someone offered me an airline ticket anywhere in the world to photograph a city, I’d have to pick Old San Juan in Puerto Rico. I lived in this special place for three years (from 2013 – 2016) and it continues to captivate me.

While living there, I mainly shot with my digital cameras, but was looking for a different challenge and decided to return to film for a few projects. As a gift, a friend of mine sent me his Nikon F65 along with a 28-80mm lens, and I thought this combination with some Fuji Superia X-TRA 400 that I found at a local pharmacy would be perfect for exploring the city.

Located on the western edge of San Juan Islet, Old San Juan was founded in the early 1500s by Spain and features colorful buildings of various architectural styles, cobblestone streets built from ballast stones of early ships, two military forts on the UNESCO World Heritage List, historic churches, world-class restaurants and galleries, and many other attractions, all of which can be explored on foot.

There’s a wealth of information about touring Old San Juan both online and in print, so this article will concentrate on helpful hints for those wishing to visit and photograph this wonderful city.

Travel on foot

The narrow streets and limited parking make driving in Old San Juan a challenge, and the entire historic area can be easily explored by foot, so avoid driving if at all possible. It’s a short cab ride from the airport (Ride-shares are not all that accessible in Puerto Rico), so walking por las calles del Viejo San Juan is the best way to get around. Sturdy shoes are helpful since the cobblestone streets and the hills can make walking a bit more difficult.

A city in the tropics

Being in the heart of the Caribbean, warm temperatures and high humidity levels are the norms along with frequent showers. The biggest challenge I have run into is the condensation that can occur on the camera going from a cool air-conditioned room to the outdoors. A large zip-loc style plastic bag can be a big help – put your camera into it before you leave the air conditioning, and allow a few minutes for it to warm up before removing it from the bag.

The bag can come in handy later in the day when the inevitable shower comes through. Shower caps can work well also. Be sure to drink plenty of fluids and take breaks throughout the day, especially if you are not accustomed to the heat and humidity. Piragua (flavored shaved ice) and Helado (ice cream) carts are found throughout the city, so grab a cold snack and head toward one of the many Plazas to have a seat on a shaded bench to rest.

Watch the crowds

Old San Juan is a major cruise ship destination and hub as well as one of the most popular tourist areas in the Caribbean. In the winter months, it can get extremely busy, so it can help to check out how many ships will be in port and plan accordingly. In my experience, Old San Juan is a late-rising city, so if you like the solitude, wander the streets in the morning and you’ll be rewarded with lovely images without too many people.

On the other hand, if you enjoy photographing people, you won’t be disappointed. The many parks and plazas are typically busy throughout the day to provide wonderful photo opportunities. Speaking of parks, Parque de las Palomas (Pigeon Park) next to Capilla del Cristo church can provide some unique scenes with all the pigeons and people feeding them. Just watch your equipment – I’ve had several instances in which they “bombed” my camera! There are some beautiful seaside views of San Juan Harbor as well.

There are many festivals throughout the year but perhaps the biggest is the Fiestas de la Calle San Sebastian, which closes out the holiday season in early January. The festival features parades, costumed characters with the famous vejigante masks, dances, and an all-night street party that attracts thousands of spectators.

A city full of nature

Nature abounds in the walled city of Old San Juan with gardens, parks, and lots of green space to provide subjects for nature photography. You’ll find tropical plants and flowers, birds (I’ve seen macaws and other parrots in the trees), and along the Paseo de Princesa walking path you’ll typically come across iguanas scaling the wall. While not strictly a natural element, the city is known for its cats and cat-themed elements are nearly everywhere. An organization called Save-a-Gato (cat) patrols the city and traps the cats to spay/neuter, as well as offers food to the cats along the Paseo de Princesa.

Wandering the streets and alleyways of Old San Juan have provided me with many hours of enjoyment. The film projects I undertook were especially rewarding. When I trade my digital camera for one of my film cameras, I have a completely different mindset and approach to photography. I slow down more, think deeper, and tend to notice things that I simply pass by when using my digital cameras. I’ve tried to simulate this with digital cameras – limiting myself to shooting only a certain number of frames, not looking at the LCD, shooting in manual mode only, or letting several days or weeks go by before reviewing the images, but for me, nothing can compare to the unique challenges, rewards, and the experience of using a film camera.

Puerto Rico’s license plates say Isla del Encanto (the isle of enchantment). If you are looking for an exciting photo destination, the enchanted streets of Old San Juan and its friendly people are worth considering.

~ Dan