Review: Living with the ars-imago Lab-Box – by Tom Rayfield

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For those of you not aware, Lab-Box from ars-imago is a daylight film development system, designed to be used to develop 35mm and 120 format photographic film rolls. The makers claim it to be easy and quick to use allowing you to “develop your own films in full daylight anywhere and at any time”.

For those of you not wanting to read this entire article, here’s the TLDR:


…the Lab-Box is a quirky, yet brilliant piece of kit for developing 35mm or 120 format film. There is a small learning curve and the margin of error is quite fine, but once mastered provides an excellent solution to those without space for a full darkroom setup, or for the more casual film photographer. Yes, there are alternative setups that can be had for less money, but if you are looking for an all-in-one film developing solution that can be used during the day, look no further.

And in further detail for everyone else; for those of you who have ever developed your own film, you will know the challenges daylight film development can present, so the potential of a device that does away with the need for a dedicated darkroom or changing bag is potentially game-changing. While not the first time something like this has been seen (see Agfa Rondinax, made from 1930-1970 below), the Lab-Box is currently the only new option on the market.

Agfa Rondinax (copyright wikimedia)
Agfa Rondinax (copyright wikimedia)

Before I begin the review of the Lab-Box, as is often customary with reviews these days, a quick disclaimer. I do not work for ars-imago, nor do I know anyone who works there. At the same time, I was not sent the equipment for review, I have paid for this with my own money, looking to use this as my main developing method for 135 and 120 film. I did not back the original Kickstarter, instead, I wait for the final product to hit shelves. So the review is based on a “finished” version of the Lab-Box, from an every-day consumer.

EMULSIVE previously conduced a very interesting introduction / interview with Giorgio Di Noto about Lab-Box back in 2017, which you should read before diving in (if you haven’t already). Having read the original article back in 2017, I was curious about the Lab-Box, but having a dedicated darkroom of my own at the time, I stopped short of backing the Kickstarter. Since the publication of that article, the Lab-Box Kickstarter raised over €650,000, some way above the initial €70,000 initial goal. The very first Lab-Boxes were shipped in 2019, slightly behind schedule, but complete nonetheless. 

Here’s what I cover in this article:

Lab-Box availability

Lab-Box Crank Arm (copyright ARS-Imago)
Lab-Box Crank Arm (copyright ARS-Imago)

At the time of writing, Lab-Box is available in several brick and mortar, and online stores (including Analogue Wonderland). The standard kit provides:

  • A 35mm film module (for loading film).
  • Developing tank.
  • Film loading/agitating knob.
  • Multiformat film reel (which the unexposed film is wound on to).

Aside from chemicals and a shot roll of film (obviously), the kit contains everything you need to develop 35mm film, and unlike other “daylight” film developing tanks, the Lab-Box does not require film to be loaded onto the reel in a darkroom/dark bag. More on that later.


As of August 2020, the basic Lab-Box currently retails at £145 (including shipping) in the UK. For those wanting to develop 120 film, a separate film module is required, which costs £45 on its own or can be purchased alongside the standard kit as part of the “multi-format” kit for £180, saving £5.

There is also a crank (pictured above), which can be purchased to replace the winding knob for easier agitation for £15.

Supported film types

Lab-Box (copyright ARS-Imago)
Lab-Box (copyright ARS-Imago)

The Lab-Box allows you to develop one roll of 120 or 35mm (135) format film at a time and can be used when wet, so there is no need to wait between rolls if you have more than one roll to develop. Each film type

As noted above, the basic Lab-Box kit comes with a 35mm (135 format) film module which, as of August 2020, retails at £145 (including shipping) in the UK. A separate 120 film module can be purchased for £45 on its own or alongside the standard kit as part of the “multi-format” kit for £180.

At the time of writing, there is no 110 or 127 module, so if you shoot in these formats, this is not the tool for you. There is no mention on the Kickstarter or ars-imago website about APS film, but I would imagine that this is also not possible due to the size of the film and the size of the reel inside the device. Large format film sizes are also not catered for with the Lab-Box.

Lab-Box Alternatives

So where does that place the Lab-Box in the market for the hobbyist film developer? Purchasing the required equipment to develop 35mm or 120 film using a Paterson Tank and reel (or similar brands) plus a changing bag (allowing you to load film for developing during the day to make this a fair comparison) will set you back in the region of £50-65.

Alternatively, if you happen to own a money tree, you could go fully automated and buy something like a Jobo film processor which, brand new, start around £1500 in the UK — and even a poorly condition used one will set you back £400 or so on eBay.

Ultimately, whilst the Lab-Box is not the cheapest solution to developing film, in my opinion it offers the best all-in-one package, with the added bonus of not requiring a changing bag, which can be extremely frustrating to use in warm/humid conditions.


Why I purchased the Lab-Box

I previously had a darkroom of my own, but having moved house, I no longer had the space for a dedicated darkroom setup. My challenge was to have a darkroom setup that I could easily assemble/disassemble and store in a large storage box ready for when I needed it. The idea being that I could use it in my kitchen/bathroom whenever I had the time to develop a roll or two.

I liked the idea of developing during the middle of the day (Lab-Box says you can develop outside, but not in direct sunlight), or with the lights on when the long Winter evenings hit. I had initially considered the Paterson/changing bag solution, as many others already do, but decided to spend the extra money and purchase the Lab-Box after watching a couple of YouTube videos running through the use of the product.

Darkroom 2.0 - my entire film processing equipment, fits nicely in a small storage box
Darkroom 2.0 – my entire film processing equipment, fits nicely in a small storage box

I took the plunge and ordered the “multi-format” kit as I shoot both 35mm and 120 film. I also ordered the optional crank, as one of the YouTube videos had mentioned that this made agitation a much easier process. 

Do yourself a favour and read the manual

Once you have your Lab-Box, do yourself a favour and read the instructions before and during assembly. If you are that person who never reads the instructions (you know who you are), swallow your pride and read them for this. Yes, it is stupidly easy to put together, but speaking from experience, just read the instructions, then scan the QR codes included in the instructions and watch the videos provided.

…then read the instructions one final time just to make sure you fully understand it, as there is a very fine margin of error with this. I found out the hard way as I skipped the videos and assumed I had understood the process.

Snapped & Scratched - the first roll of film did not go according to plan
Snapped & Scratched – the first roll of film did not go according to plan

My first piece of advice

When loading 35mm film there is a double silver rail which the film must sit under, so that the film can be cut by the metal blades when the end of the roll is reached. I didn’t watch the video and skimmed over the instructions. This led me to ignore this important step and as a result, my film was scratched the length of the reel and then snapped when it got to the end of the cassette. 

Silver Rail - make sure your film goes under, not over, the silver rail
Silver Rail – make sure your film goes under, not over, the silver rail

This is not the fault of the device, but the user. Fortunately, this was a test roll I had shot at home and I didn’t lose anything important.

My second piece of advice

When using the Lab-Box for the first time, use a sacrificial roll of film you wouldn’t mind losing just in case you make a mistake when using it for the first time.


There is a learning curve to using the Lab-Box. It’s not a steep one, nor will it take you ages to conquer, but it took me 2 or 3 rolls of 35mm and 3 or 4 rolls of 120 before I was fully comfortable with the process. Fast forward a couple of months and I can use it without thinking, so it isn’t anything to fear by any means.

Developing 35mm film in the Lab-Box

When developing 35mm film, you will need to make sure you cut the leader end off square, leaving you with a flat edge. This allows the film clip to sit flush to the film, ensuring it slides on to the reels correctly.

Film Edge - make sure you trim 35mm film before applying the clip
Film Edge – make sure you trim 35mm film before applying the clip

Once you have cut the film end, place it into the slot (it can only go one way), and slot it under the silver rails. Then place the film clip in the middle of the film with the Lab-Box logo facing up (this way the film will load correctly on to the reel). In practise, it does matter if the film clip is not centred correctly.

You don’t need to get a ruler out and measure the exact centre of the film, but if the clip isn’t straight or in the middle it can lead to a mis-load. This happened once and my film stuck together, leading to patchy spots all over the roll where the developer had not hit the film equally.

Partially developed film - if you are not careful loading the film it can miss the reel and produce results like this
Partially developed film – if you are not careful loading the film it can miss the reel and produce results like this

Once the film has been clipped, slide it into the grey film guide and put the lid on. From here you can slowly turn the knob/crank and load the film on to the reel. When you turn the knob/crank do it slowly. And I mean slowly. The kind of slow that would infuriate a tortoise. I have found from experience that any kind of speed during this process can cause the film to mis-load on to the reel. 

I should also point out that during this film loading process (fast or slow) there is a rather odd scratching sound as the film loads on to the reel that sounds like keys scratching something metal. Despite this, in all 12 rolls of 35mm I have successfully put through this thing, not one has been scratched, so I am not sure why the sound exists. However, as fear inducing as it is, your film should be fine, assuming the blades were retracted when loading the film. 

When the film has been wound on to the reel and you cannot wind further, push the button at the back of the 135 module to raise the blades and cut the film. You’ll need another couple of rotations to get the last of the film on to the reel, but you can feel when it has fully passed through the chamber.

Chemicals - having minimal processing equipment means I can develop anywhere with a water source
Chemicals – having minimal processing equipment means I can develop anywhere with a water source

At this point, you are ready to load your chemicals of choice through the slit at the end of the Lab-Box lid. It is up to you how much developer chemistry you want to use, but Lab-Box recommends one of two solutions:


  1. Use 300ml of chemistry and agitate constantly throughout.
  2. Use 490ml of chemistry and agitate occasionally.

In real-world practise I tried both amounts of chemistry. I found that 490ml is extremely close to completely filling the Lab-Box, to the point where I often had spillages of chemistry with even the slightest turn of the crank. I found 300ml to be more than sufficient, and do not mind the agitation process.

Having switched to 300ml I tried both the supplied knob and the additional crank and found the crank to be a significant improvement over the knob. I was able to agitate the film much more consistently and found the process to be much less of an ache on my arm.

Similar to when loading the film, agitate the film slowly (tortoise slow). I found that if I was too vigorous with my agitation, even with 300ml of chemicals inside the tank, there would still be spillages, which is not ideal. 

When your development time has elapsed, simply pour the chemistry out of the tank. You’ll notice one of the corners has a slight lip to it, which helps when pouring back into containers for storage, which is a very nice touch. 

Chemical Storage - glass bottles and funnels from IKEA are great for darkrooms and very cheap / readily available
Chemical Storage – glass bottles and funnels from IKEA are great for darkrooms and very cheap / readily available

Personally, I rinse my Lab-Box after each use with plain tap water just to make sure that there are no chemicals left inside, and to try and prolong the life of it but I used to do the same with my Paterson tanks in my darkroom, so this isn’t something you must do by any means. 

You do not need to fully dry the Lab-Box before use again, and I encountered no issues when loading film on to a wet reel vs a dry reel during first use. I was able to develop 4 rolls of film back to back without any issue and that was without drying the Lab-Box. As long as you are careful and take things slowly then you should be able to replicate this without issue.

Developing 120 format film in the Lab-Box

When developing 120 format film many of the steps are similar to 35mm, only the loading of the film differs. 

To load 120 film, first make sure that the dial on the module is in the 12 o’clock position (below, left) and flip up the hinged cover. Break the seal on your exposed 120 film and load it into the 120 module. As you do, slide the leader through the slot at the back of the module. Pull down the film cover, clicking it into place and place the Lab-Box’s man cover over the unit.


With the module’s dial at the 12 o’clock position, the film will wind itself into the cavity below when separated from the backing paper.

With everything ready, start pulling the backing paper through the slot. Keep pulling until the paper becomes tight and you cannot pull it any more. At this point, tear the backing paper as close to the slot as you can. Turn the dial from 12 o’clock anti-clockwise to the 8 o’clock position.

Turning the dial covers the film in the cavity, stopping light from spoiling your film. The next step is to take the lid off the Lab-Box — make sure you have definitely turned the dial, otherwise, you will expose the whole roll of film to daylight. With the lid off, you will see the end of the backing paper and the end of the film roll.

Pull the backing paper from the slot and remove the tape holding it to the film. Take out the film spool and backing paper and you should be left with the end of the film roll, sticking out of the cavity. From this point you can attach the film clip, similar to the 35mm instructions, ensuring that the clip is straight and centred. 

Finally, once the clip has been applied, place the lid back on the Lab-Box and turn the dial back to the 12 o’clock position. This allows the film to freely flow on to the reel. Similar to 35mm film, do this super slowly and take your time with it. Once your film is on the reel, develop as you normally would, just like the 35mm process described above.

Lab-Box 120 Module - Developing Ilford HP5 with Fotospeed FD10
Lab-Box 120 Module – Developing Ilford HP5 with Fotospeed FD10

Lab-Box real world use

I have had my Lab-Box for 3 months now, and in that time, I have successfully processed 12 rolls of 35mm and 9 rolls of 120. I lost one roll of 35mm because I didn’t read the instructions carefully, and my first roll of 120 I lost the first frame because I thought I needed more of the film to fully attach the film clip to and pulled too much into the light, exposing the negative (you don’t need to do this, the little bit you have leftover after separating the film from the backing paper is more than enough).

All of my film has developed properly, with the exception of one roll of 35mm, which stuck together due to me not taking my time when winding the film on to the reel. All of my film was free from scratches and didn’t show a single sign of a light leak, despite being under my kitchen spotlights throughout development (I tried to make the room as bright as possible to see how good the thing really is, and I must say, I am impressed).

Whilst it is only possible to develop one roll of film at a time, I had no problem with developing multiple films, and managed to develop 3 rolls of 120 film back-to-back without any issue. I also managed to develop 4 rolls of 35mm film back-to-back without any issue.


However, being colour film I found that this did push my boredom threshold due to the long development time of the C41 kit I was using (Tetenal, 8.5 minutes – 9 minutes per roll just for the developer stage, it took about 20-25 mins in total with blix, rinse and fix, per film). This isn’t the fault of the Lab-Box, but I can acknowledge that a multi-reel Paterson tank would have sped this process up considerably as I would have been able to develop all 4 rolls in one go with enough reels.

The crank is definitely a must purchase, as the knob that comes as standard with the kit makes it hard to consistently agitate the film – I used it once and haven’t touched it since. I wish that ARS-Imago had included the crank arm as standard, and feel a little disappointed that this was an additional purchase, especially for the price being asked. However, despite the cost and annoyance of having to purchase it separately, if you are thinking of buying a Lab-Box, it is definitely an essential purchase.

I did notice on mine that after 5 rolls of use the screw holding the crank arm to the crank end was loose, which caused it to separate slightly (see image below). I was able to tighten the screw, but given the ease of 3D printing in the modern day, I cannot understand why this part was not made as one singular piece, rather than being held together with a screw.

Crank Handle - small separation between the crank and the arm, easily fixed with a screwdriver but annoying nonetheless
Crank Handle – small separation between the crank and the arm, easily fixed with a screwdriver but annoying nonetheless

Ultimately, after quite a bit of extensive use, the only issue I have had with the Lab-Box that wasn’t my own fault was the build quality of the crank. There has been nothing go wrong with it that couldn’t have been avoided with a bit more patience or reading the instructions (seriously, just read them) and when I reflect and consider that, I am more than satisfied with my purchase.

In conclusion

In summary, would I recommend the Lab-Box? Yes and no.

The makers claim of it being easy and quick to use is somewhat true. The Lab-Box does have a learning curve, but fortunately, this is quite shallow, so I would say that it is easy to use, once you have got the hang of it. The claim of it being quick is also true, if you are the kind of person who struggles with changing bags (those proficient with a changing bag wouldn’t see a time saving). However, the need to be slow when agitating or when loading film is certainly not quick, so that is the claim I dispute the most.

What the makers don’t directly claim (it is semi-implied if you read between the lines), but certainly is the case here, is the question “is the Lab-Box convenient?” to which the answer is a definite yes. As an all-in-one developing solution that can be used in the middle of the day, this definitely adds a level of convenience to the developing process that should be celebrated.

In short; does the Lab-Box work? Yes.


All of my films — both black and white, and colour — came out fine and it did exactly what I wanted it to do. The build quality of the Lab-Box and the modules is good. I have used it quite extensively in a short space of time and the only issue I have had with the build quality was the aforementioned crank, which was easily fixed by tightening the screw. 

So why my hesitance in recommending it? Well, if you already have a darkroom setup, this is not for you. There is nothing that the Lab-Box does that a regular darkroom cannot. 

At the same time, if you are the kind of person who will want to batch-process large amounts of film, this is not for you either.

Considering that you can get a Paterson tank capable of developing 8 rolls of 35mm film AND enough reels to develop said 8 rolls of 35mm for the same price as the 35mm Lab-Box kit, I wouldn’t recommend the Lab-Box, as you would save a lot more time by going down the Paterson route, even when using a changing bag. When you also consider that smaller setups using tanks and changing bags can be had for much less than the price of a Lab-Box, for the budget-conscious film shooter, I cannot recommend the Lab-Box either.

However, if you are the kind of person who doesn’t have the space for a darkroom, then this is a great solution as it is an all-in-one device. I can imagine that for people who live in a flat (apartment/condo for you Americans) or are in a house-share this presents a great option as it does not take up much storage space. I could also see this being a great travel darkroom, for those who would want to develop film whilst travelling in a motorhome or camper-van for long periods of time and had access to enough running water.

A quick aside…

Here are some recent photos, developed with the Lab-Box. 35mm photos are Kodak ColourPlus 200 (EI100), developed using Tetenal C41 kit. 120 photos are Ilford PanF (EI50) developed in FD10.

…back to my final thoughts.


Similarly, if you are the kind of person who only shoots 1 or 2 rolls at a time, then the Lab-Box is a viable solution. I have found that by adapting my workflow and developing more regularly that I develop smaller amounts on the day I have shot the film that the Lab-Box makes sense, rather than my previous workflow of saving up lots of film and batch-processing. 

Finally, for those who are new to film photography developing, buying a Lab-Box compared to lots of separate items would seem less intimidating, even if the initial cost was more. Plus, with the added ability to develop during the day, possibly under the guidance of someone more experienced, may provide a level of comfort to those not familiar with the darkroom.

So if you are in the niche group that this product is for, yes, buy a Lab-Box, you won’t regret it.

TLDR; whilst not for everyone, the Lab-Box is a quirky, yet brilliant piece of kit for developing 35mm or 120 film. There is a small learning curve and the margin of error is quite fine, but once mastered provides an excellent solution to those without space for a full darkroom setup, or for the more casual film photographer. Yes, there are alternative setups that can be had for less money, but if you are looking for an all-in-one film developing solution that can be used during the day, look no further.

Thanks for reading!

~ Tom

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23 thoughts on “Review: Living with the ars-imago Lab-Box – by Tom Rayfield”

  1. Hi Tom,
    I’ve been intrigued by this concept and have followed a few posts by other enthusiasts.

    But, for the life of me, I can’t see how this is an improvement over a developing tank & a changing bag.

    It seems fiddling, more chemistry with less film. Increased chance of ruining film, etc.

    You can buy a small plastic storage box and fit a developing tank, beakers, chemicals, changing bag, etc. and slip the kit under your bed.

    I taught a comprehensive photo program for 35 years in a local high school. I couldn’t even begin to recall how many thousands of rolls were developed by students. We always used changing bags, s/steel tanks & reels. It was a compact solution.

    But, different strokes for different folks.

    Only one real quibble: you seem to use food storage containers and kitchen funnels. I would strongly caution people NOT to use any food related items. There is a real risk of poisoning if someone grabs a bottle of photo chemical. If there are little ones or anyone that could be injured by mistake, put everything under lock & key.

    Reply
  2. Hi Tom, thanks for the article. I wrote a post about my first experience using the Lab-box here: https://www.talkphotography.co.uk/threads/lab-box-a-new-type-of-rondinax.637565/post-8493493 (there’s another post a bit later). I’ve been using a Rondinax for years, but I wanted something that would do 120 as well. Two comments: I found the handle to be a bad design, as it was too low to the counter top, and there was also a tendency to leave the handle in similar positions between agitations, which could lead to uneven development.

    The other thing is that the multi-purpose 120/135 reel is awful. I’ve decided to stick with my Rondinax for 135 as long as I can and use the Lab-box for 120. If I want to switch, I’ll buy an extra reel (apparently they are available for €19 from Ars-Imago, although there’s also €22 postage for me.

    I also felt that the loading of chems is hampered by slightly poor design of the lid; you have to load much more slowly than with the Rondinax, or you’ll get spillage.

    But it is nice to have a really sharp guillotine, and no leakage, plus the ability to do stand or semi-stand if I want!

    Reply
  3. Thank you for a well written review.
    I purchased mine through the initial Kickstarter it arrived as one of the first units to be shipped from HK… I have since purchased the Pro Lid which I have to say is worth every cent!
    Developing 35mm can be a bit hit and miss it certainly seems to load easier with thicker film stocks.
    There was a note about this in the instructions but ARS didn’t qualify which brand of films have problems. I think I have had at least one!
    Long ago when I learned how to load a Patterson Spiral my secondary school art teacher told me that to load 35mm film easily cut a 45 degree snip off the leading edge of the film before feeding it into the spiral. This I have done with many hundreds of 35mm films since… DO NOT do this with Lab Box it causes the film wrap around the axel and not feed onto the spiral.
    Fortunately I had a dummy run with spent film and the lid off, the loading failed. After several try’s I re-cut the film straight across between the sprocket holes and its fine. It happens because the guide curves the film into the spiral groves. The 45 degree snip causes the film to miss the groves then wrap itself around the central axel.
    I have probably messed up three films in the Lab Box all 35 mm and no 120’s I honestly feel that having 1 spiral for both 35mm and 120 is a mistake. The movement in the adjustable spiral I feel causes much of the loading issues with 35mm especially if one regularly switches between the two.
    I feel 20 exposure films would be more successful than 36 because most of the film touches have been at the end of winding the film on. So at some point a bulk film loader is likely in my future. Once I decide on just one film!
    I can’t emphasise enough when loading a film, wind it Slooooowly
    Thanks again
    michaelward.com.au
    &
    perceptivelight.com

    Reply
  4. One of the key reasons I use a Jobo (for close to 20 years now) is that it requires far less chemistry to run. 300ml for a single roll of film is outrageous, especially for colour 🙂

    I’m typically using 270ml for 4 x 120 roll film.

    Reply
  5. Great review Tom. To date this is the only way I have developed any of my own film, mainly cos I’m lazy and useless in equal parts. I originally crowdfunded Lab Box and it sat unused for quite some time afterwards BUT once I did start using it I have used it a lot. If you’re a lazy shooter like me that only wants to develop now and again and send the vast majority of stuff to the lab then this is a good solution, especially if you haven’t already invested in some sort of Paterson set up

    Reply
  6. My experience is quite different than yours. I’ve wasted more film in this device than I ever dreamed of. It turns out that the reels for my 120 were incorrect. They replaced those but it is difficult if not impossible to get film to roll on without touching in spots. I seldom shoot 35 but I did so just to try it out. I have never gotten a roll of 35 to go on to the reels correctly. I’ve wasted a ton of money and film trying. I can assure I carefully followed the instructions point by point. I suspect the problem is actually the spindle not being correct (hence the problem with 120 as well). The response I got was that there couldn’t be a problem.

    Reply
    • Sorry to hear you were less successful with yours Jim. I have had the same issues as you but fortunately have only had a couple of rolls affected by it.

      Reply
  7. Overwhelming first impression is “What is TLDR” and why, Tom, are you using being obscure by using an acronym when you appear to mean “Synopsis” or “Cut to the chase”? Irritated enough to write this and lose further interest. Maybe I’ll read it later.

    Reply
      • Heh. So TLDR is in Mirriam-Webster, eh? Like I said, obscure: First use 2002. Bah, humbug.

        Alright then, I got past my snit and did go back to read this. A good review of a device I’ve been intrigued by since its first announcement, and I’ve enjoyed the counterpoints brought up by other respondents as well. In the end though, I can’t get past the objection to a dark bag for ease of use and economy. I mean, I sit at my kitchen table in daylight, tumble all the bits into the bag, dive in up to my elbows and load my (1 or 2 or 4) reels, cap the tank—and continue in daylight. It’s quick, easy, economical, and I can use a water bath for temp control.

        But you know, I use stainless reels and tanks too, so I’m clearly just a curmudgeonly sort anyhow.

        Reply
  8. Hi Tom,
    How did you cope with maintaining temperature for the C-41 processing?
    I’ve got a mental picture of a partially submerged LabBox with the crank under warm water…

    Reply
    • Hi John

      I found that if I heated my C41 chems to roughly 35-36 degrees, over the course of the development the average temperature would be enough that it developed the negatives. The manual talks about taking 5 minutes to pre-warm the Lab-Box before first use, but I didn’t find that this made a difference in my experience with it. I know this isn’t the same as keeping it consistent throughout but I have found it worked for me whenever I used the Lab-Box.

      With black and white room temperature was enough for the chemistry to work.

      Reply
    • It does work fine in a water bath, though. I’ve used it for E-6 this way. Two important points: (1) Make sure the water bath level is low enough that it won’t flood in over the lid. Remember that the water level will rise as you set the Lab-Box into the bath (because of displacement) so you need to allow for this. My suggestion is to test first by setting the empty Lab-Box in the empty weather bath, then measure how much water to add to bring the level just above the agitating knob but below the top edge of the Lab-Box. (2) The Lab-Box is slightly buoyant even when filled with solution, so have a weight handy to set on top of it to keep it from bobbing around. I use a small glass jar filled with water.

      Reply
  9. I have one, backed the Kickstarter project, and patiently waited for the production process delays to be solved (a few backers were significantly annoyed).

    We also have created a Flickr group, completely independent from Ars-Imago. https://flic.kr/g/3eBfMe.

    Some remarks on the box:
    – don’t wash the film module, it’s unnecessary and it may cause the cutting blade rusting;
    – the crank: may be useful, but there are samples, which come off, because the protuberance that holds in in place is too small. I did not realise this and when I developed my second film part of the developer leaked out, fortunately I put it back and it suffered no consequences. I reversed back to the knob;
    – Agitation: the manual says it should be vigorous. In my experience it produced excessive grain and caused the erasure of the frame numbering at the edges.

    As regards the ‘scratching’ sound when film is loaded, contrary to traditional reels, in which film is loaded from the outside to the inside, the Lab-Box bends it slightly and inserts it from the centre of the reel (the hub) to the outside. This makes the film scratch against the groove of the wheel, generating the sound.

    When I load the film I make sure that I turn the knob gently and slowly, to make sure that the process is smooth and that there are no issues.

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  10. Im glad Tom your experiences were better than mine with ARS Imago Lab box. Shocking customer support.

    Broken/damaged Lab box on arrival. No parts or help offered. Didn’t get what i paid for etc etc.

    I was one of the first Kickstarter supporter on this build and really believed that they would deliver. 18 months I waited for my broken one. I go so feed up with trying to resolve the issues that I put it all down to a really bad experience and took it on the chin.

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    • Sorry to hear you didn’t have the best experience with it Rick. I haven’t needed customer support yet but have unfortunately heard several stories similar to yours about a lack of support.

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  11. Nice article, I made the same mistake on loading the wrong side of the cutter bars too!
    I’ve yet to try colour at 38degs
    Ian has

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  12. Tom, interesting to read your experiences with the LabBox. I’d like to mention that the parts are injection moulded not 3D printed – which was one of the reasons for the delays in the Kickstarter, IIRC. But yes, the crank could be better.

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    • Thanks Martin. Re-reading the article that part didn’t make much sense. I realise that they were injection moulded, I meant that with 3D printing I am surprised that they were not able to engineer an all-in-one part that could have been 3D printed, especially if it is a weak part of the design.

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